The First Test fit of the engine

I was heading out of town for the week so not much was going to happen on this project for sometime. I decided it'd be fun to have the engine sitting in the car while I was gone. so thursday evening I loaded it in. It's a tight fit but it's in there. I didn't have the driverside header on but I do have it bolted to the engine and trans mounts and to the car. I also test fit the driveshaft I have and it fit perfect. Lots to do yet but it is looking like it is going to work out.

Installing the clutch and brake pedal

The pedal set from a manual BMW was given to me as a christmas present (my car was originally an automatic). I finally installed the clutch and brake pedal into the car this week. The nice thing about installing it was that the bracket that holds the pedals was the same for both the manual and the auto so I just had to transfer the pedals and the master clutch cyl to the car. Sometimes I don't know what BMW was thinking when they desiged some parts of the car. The clutch mater cyl inside the car and not in the engine bay?? Installing the pedals sounded pretty easy but installing the helper return spring proved to be challenging. I finally got it. I found the bracket to hold the other end of the clutch hard line is not on the car and it appears that the electrical connector for the clutch switch is not on the car either. Small stuff but it still has to be done. It would have been nicer to have a manual trans car to start with



.

Power Steering Pressure line

Also done this weekend was the Power Steering pressure line. This I thought turned out really well. It was my first time making a custom powersteering line. Starting at the Power steering pump then working to the rack the part#'s are as follows.

1. Saginaw P/S Metric Conv Adapter (FBM2608)

2. -6 90 Deg Hose End, PS (FBM1389)

3. -6 AQP Pwr Steering Hose (FBG0600 aprx 1.5 feet)

4. -6 45 Deg Hose end, PS (FBM1386)

5. Male 14 x 1.5mm Metric Concave Seat to 6AN, Steel (3276-004)

6. 14mm Crush washer (I reused the one from the steering rack)

Part#5 I had a hard time finding in steel. I did find it at Pegasus. All the other parts were from Hoerr Racing.

Also done this weekend was to put the fireproof sleeve over the steering shaft. Aeroquip fireproof sleeve 1.5" dia was used. Purchased from Pegasus under part#3299-1.50 (aprox 15" worth) I also routed the wiring for the starter between the starter and the block to be farther from the header heat. Then wraped the whole starter in Heat Barrier (Thermo Tec Aluminized Heat barrier). Oh while I'm spitting out part#'s of things I've used. For the oil pressure switch I used a M16x1.5 to 1/8-27 NPT adapter (Equus part# 9848) and a pressure switch from Napa part#0p6613SB They said it was from a typical chevy product and was about $2.00.

Other things done this weekend were to begin the relocation process for the ABS unit, installing the clutch and brake pedal set (the car was an automatic) and relocating the heater valves. These haven't yet been completed.

Clutch remote bleed line

Finally the last fitting I needed to complete my remote bleed line showed up on the 14th. After weeks of being on back order I finally recieved the fitting. In the picture is shown the parts.

The parts starting at the slave cyl are.

1. 10mm crush washer (Pegasus part# 3241-3/8)

2. -4 to 10mmx1.5 metric adapter (Aeroquip FCM2967 or Goodridge 305-04-35P)

3. 36" of -4 teflong brake line with Straight/Straight Swivel fitting ends (BL-6104-36)

4. Female 10x1.0mm Metric concave seat to -4 Steel (pegasus part# 3265-19)

5. 10mmx1 bleed screw (bought at NAPA).

Part 4 and 5 could have been any thread that matched and not 10mmx1.0 but fitting 4 is the same fitting that could be used for adapting the BMW clutch hardline to -4 AN. I thought it would be best to make them the same. The parts that are not pegasus (http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/) or NAPA were purchased at Hoerr Racing (http://www.hrpworld.com/). I was unable to find part 2 and 4 at the same place. Oh well.

After installing the engine to the car I found 36" of line is probably too long but it all depends on where you plan put the end of the bleed line.

BMW engine removal

Well I'm not very good at keeping things updated. Last weekend I pulled the BMW motor. All and all it went fairly well and wasn't too difficult. One of the features I like on the BMW is the fact the hood will open nearly vertical. No real need to remove the hood. Also everything infront of the radiator unbolts so the motor can be pulled basically straight forward.

In the picture is the LS1 waiting to go in and the BMW motor hanging on the hoist. I spent the remainder of the week checking out the wiring and labeling the wires.

This weeks update

This week I finalized decisions on the fuel lines. I decided to go with the GM quick connects after all. I cut one out of the end of the loose fuel line on the engine to use on the fuel filter/pressure regulator. I also bought a tool from the local autoparts store to disconnect the GM quick connect lines. In demonstrating how the connectors work to my wife I connected the fitting to the fuel filter and then disconnected it with the tool. Or rather I tried to disconnect it with the tool. The tool (which is made exclusively for removing these type of connectors) would not fit between the filter and the top of the fitting so it could not be slide into the fitting to disconnect it. Have I mentioned how I hate these quick connect fittings?

I also ordered some more pieces to complete the Clutch line and clutch bleedline. While I was at it I found a steel version of a powersteering fitting adapter I needed (I had previously only found aluminum ones). So I ordered that too. I'll list all the part #'s and descriptions AFTER I verify it all fits.

I did sell some of the LS1 parts I didn't need this week. The unmodified oil pan, The Camaro pedal assy, the trans cross member and the catylitic converter. However, about the only actual work to the engine I did this week was to fabricate the driver side motor mount heat sheild.